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HomeEnvironmentFocaccia: A Timeless Bread with 9,000 Years of Flavor History

Focaccia: A Timeless Bread with 9,000 Years of Flavor History

A recent study suggests that during the Late Neolithic period, specifically from 7000 to 5000 BCE, agricultural societies in the Fertile Crescent area of the Near East created a sophisticated culinary tradition. This included baking large bread loaves and focaccias with various flavors using unique trays that archaeologists refer to as husking trays.

A recent investigation led by researchers from the UAB and the University La Sapienza in Rome highlights that between 7000 and 5000 BCE, fully agricultural communities in the Fertile Crescent cultivated a rich culinary culture, which featured the baking of substantial bread loaves and flavored focaccias on specific trays known to archaeologists as husking trays.

This study appears in the journal Scientific Reports (Nature Portfolio) and includes collaboration from experts at the Milà i Fontanals Institution (IMF-CSIC) and the University of Lyon (France).

Husking trays are distinct containers, characterized by a large oval base and low walls, crafted from coarse clay. Unlike standard trays, these had an internal surface featuring rough patterns or incisions arranged in a systematic manner. Prior experiments using replicas of these trays, along with cooking setups similar to those discovered at archaeological sites from the relevant period, allowed scholars to propose their intended use. Findings indicated that large loaves made from water and flour may have been baked on these trays, which were then placed in domed ovens for about 2 hours at an initial temperature of 420°C. The grooves inside the trays would have helped in easily lifting the bread after baking. Additionally, the substantial size of the loaves, weighing approximately 3 kg, implies they were likely meant for group consumption.

The research team studied ceramic fragments of husking trays dated between 6400 and 5900 BCE to confirm their role as specialized baking containers for dough made from cereals. They also assessed whether these doughs could have been flavored with animal fat or vegetable oil. The remains analyzed were sourced from archaeological sites at Mezraa Teleilat, Akarçay Tepe, and Tell Sabi Abyad, situated between Syria and Turkey. The examinations were conducted at the Universities of Istanbul and Koç in Turkey.

The study utilized a variety of analytic methods from a comprehensive viewpoint, providing robust evidence of how these artifacts were used and the types of food prepared with them. Particularly, the investigation of phytoliths (silica residues from plants) showed that cereals like wheat (Triticum sp.) and barley (Hordeum sp.) were ground into flour and processed in these trays. Additionally, the analysis of organic residues revealed that some trays were employed to cook dishes containing animal-derived products, such as fats, and, in at least one instance, seasonings from plants. The condition of the residues indicated that in at least two situations, the trays reached temperatures suitable for baking dough in domed ovens. Furthermore, an analysis of the wear on the ceramic surface revealed markings specifically related to bread and those associated with seasoned focaccia remnants.

“Our findings provide a detailed insight into how the communities utilized their cultivated cereals to create breads and focaccias adorned with various ingredients for communal enjoyment,” states Sergio Taranto, the study’s lead author and a part of his doctoral research conducted at the UAB and La Sapienza. “The presence of husking trays that we researched suggests that this culinary tradition during the Late Neolithic evolved over about six centuries and was widespread across the Near East,” he concludes.

Researchers Adrià Breu, Anna Bach, and Miquel Molist from the UAB’s Prehistoric Archaeology of the Near East Research Group (SAPPO) also contributed to this study.