George Mallory, a well-known mountaineer, has had his letters released to the public for the first time, marking the 100th anniversary of his fatal attempt to climb Everest. Mallory, who attended Magdalene College, Cambridge, is famous for his alleged response of “because it’s there” when questioned about his desire to conquer Everest. There is ongoing discussion regarding whether he and his expedition actually reached the summit.ing partner Andrew ‘Sandy’ Irvine reached the summit of the mountain.
The primary focus of the archive consists of correspondences exchanged between Mallory and his wife Ruth from the time of their engagement in 1914 until his passing on Everest in 1924. Among the letters is the very last one he penned before his ultimate attempt to reach the summit of Everest, as well as three letters that were found on his body in 1999 after surviving 75 years in his jacket pocket.
The letters delve into various intriguing topics, such as:
- His initial reconnaissance mission to Everest in 1921, for which there were no existing records or data available.maps, it was uncharted and this was the mission to see if it was even possible to get to the base of Everest.
- His second mission to scope out Everest. This mission ended in disaster when eight Sherpas were swept off the mountain and killed in an avalanche. Mallory blamed himself for this tragic accident in his letters.
- His service in the First World War including his eyewitness accounts of being in the Artillery during the Battle of the Somme.
- Letters from his 1923 visit to the USA in the middle of prohibition, visiting speakeasies, asking for milk and being served whiskey through a secret hatch.
The letters from Mallory’s wife, Ruth, are a valuable resource for understanding the social history of women during the First World War. They cover a wide range of topics related to her experiences as a woman during this time. These letters can be accessed for free on the Magdalene College website. According to College Archivist Katy Green, working with these letters has been a delightful experience. Whether it’s Ruth writing about sending plum cakes and a grapefruit to George in the trenches (he complained that the grapefruit wasn’t ripe enough), or George’s poignant last letter mentioning the slim chances of scaling Everest, these letters provide a captivating insight.insight into the life of this well-known Magdalene alumnus.”
Excerpts from the letters include:
From Mallory’s last letter to his wife Ruth before the attempt:
“My dearest, I hope for the best for you — that your worries will be over before you receive this — with the best news. And that news will also be the fastest. The odds are 50 to 1 against us but we still have a chance and will make ourselves proud. Sending great love to you. Always yours, George.”
From the only remaining letter from the Everest expedition in the Archive that Ruth Mallory wrote to her husband.
“I am staying cheerful and happy but
Mallory’s sister, Mary Brooke, expressed her strong feelings of missing her and desiring her companionship even more than before. She also apologized for her past behavior, explaining that it was fueled by unhappiness at feeling neglected. Mary acknowledged that it was foolish to ruin the time they did spend together by dwelling on the times they were apart.
Mary also mentioned the weather reports and expressed curiosity about any potential connection between their local weather and its effects on Mallory. She sent an observatory report and looked forward to discussing any potential correlations. This letter was written from Colombo, Sri Lanka.
Today, we experienced an incredibly intense storm that lasted for nearly three hours. If you encounter a similar storm, be sure to stay alert and prepared.