Microplastics found in leave-on cosmetics and personal care items are not receiving the research attention they deserve, as highlighted by a new critical review from University of Birmingham scientists.
A recent review from the University of Birmingham reveals that microplastics in leave-on cosmetics and personal care products are being largely ignored by research and regulatory bodies.
The study, titled ‘Beyond microbeads: Examining the role of cosmetics in microplastic pollution and spotlighting unanswered questions’, is published in the Journal of Hazardous Materials. It uncovers an alarming lack of investigation into leave-on products like sunscreens, moisturizers, hand sanitizers, deodorants, and lipsticks, which may contain components posing risks to both environmental and human health.
Dr. Anna Kukkola from the University of Birmingham states, “We undertook a thorough systematic review to assess what is currently known about microplastics in cosmetic and personal care products. Our findings highlight a significant gap in existing research and regulatory frameworks, which mostly focus on rinse-off products.”
“The role of leave-on cosmetics in contributing to microplastic pollution is a crucial yet under-researched area of environmental contamination. These particles can ultimately find their way into wastewater treatment facilities or landfills, where they might contaminate aquatic ecosystems. Despite the likelihood of substantial skin exposure to microplastics through these products, there is a notable absence of studies exploring the related health impacts; no research on microplastic exposure was found in this review.”
The review analyzed 2,381 products and identified only two that were classified as leave-on. This gap may be attributed to the challenges of extracting microplastics from intricate oil-based formulations, or perhaps due to a lack of public consciousness resulting from multiple bans on microplastics in rinse-off products, leading many to believe that regulations are sufficient.
Dr. Kukkola further adds, “Overall, we know very little about the quantity and nature of microplastics in cosmetics and personal care products beyond rinse-off types like facial scrubs and toothpaste. It may be that the complexity of testing leave-on formulas for harmful particles is a significant reason for this lack of knowledge. Alternatively, the scant research may stem from public perception, shaped by industry advertising, suggesting that microplastic issues in these products have been effectively addressed, which is far from true. The only regulatory measure adequately addressing leave-on cosmetics is the new EU microplastic ban, which will gradually take effect — starting with rinse-off cosmetics in 2027, and leaving-on products in 2029, while makeup items will not be targeted until 2035, with most regulations currently focused only on rinse-off products.”
“From a health standpoint, there is very little understanding of what occurs to these products after they are applied to our skin. There are myriad ways these ingredients can enter our bodies, depending on how the product is applied. For instance, lip balms can be ingested, and smaller plastic particles may penetrate the skin through hair follicles and sweat ducts (known as the transappendageal route). Given how much of these formulations are absorbed by our bodies, it’s troubling that research on the associated health effects is nearly nonexistent, and this lack of investigation needs to be addressed.”
The study suggests that the term “microbead,” which specifically refers to microplastics in rinse-off products, has been incorrectly used as a blanket term for all microplastics in cosmetic and personal care product literature. This misunderstanding has contributed to a regulatory focus predominantly geared towards rinse-off products, leaving a significant portion of microplastic pollution from leave-on products overlooked in global legislation.
Dr. Kukkola concludes: “This research clearly shows that leave-on products are significantly under-researched, resulting in a large knowledge gap. It underscores the necessity for developing new analytical methods to support future regulatory efforts.”
Following this analysis, Prof. Iseult Lynch (University of Birmingham) and Dr. Sophie Comer-Warner (University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign) have secured funding through the Birmingham-Illinois Partnership for Discovery, Engagement & Education (BRIDGE) to create methods for the extraction, analysis, and identification of microplastics in leave-on cosmetics, aiming to begin closing these knowledge gaps. Prof. Lynch points out that “While the microplastics themselves might be relatively harmless, various other chemicals are often bound to or within them in intricate leave-on formulations. These may include potential PFAS, plasticizers, and other substances recognized as carcinogens or endocrine disruptors. Our BRIDGE initiative will specifically develop pathways to extract microplastics and their associated chemicals, allowing for thorough analysis of the potential toxicological risks of daily exposure through cosmetics and personal care products.”
