How does one mark 175 years of legacy?

If you’re Huntsman, the prestigious Savile Row tailoring establishment in London, you enlist Tom Chamberlin, the editor-in-chief of “The Rake” magazine, to write a book chronicling its journey.

Titled “Huntsman: Redefining Savile Row,” this book is set to be released in stores across the U.S. on Tuesday. It reflects on the brand’s history and honors the skill involved in crafting custom clothing.

“I want readers to gain a deep understanding of the dedicated individuals who devote their lives to this craft,” Chamberlin shared with YSL News. “These talented people infuse their passion into creating something uniquely yours.”

Huntsman, which served as inspiration for the successful “Kingsman” movies starring Taron Egerton and Colin Firth, has dressed a diverse clientele from British nobility to Hollywood icons and financial elites.

Chamberlin spoke with YSL News about Huntsman’s past, the enduring relevance of tailoring today, and how this book signifies a new chapter in his career.

This exchange has been edited for brevity and clarity.

An Esteemed Tailor for Today

YSL News: Why does Huntsman continue to attract attention after 175 years?

Chamberlin: Huntsman has always described itself as modern since 1849.

The unique aspect of Huntsman is its evolution over time. Although the tailoring industry has faced its share of challenges, Huntsman has continually been a pioneer, adapting to the needs of clients in a rapidly changing world.

Back in the early 20th century, the quintessential English gentleman was the trend. When Hollywood emerged as a significant cultural force, Huntsman was the first to adapt and cater to these stars, ensuring it stayed on the cutting edge.

From the Blitz to Tailoring Icon

YSL News: A significant figure in Huntsman’s story is Colin Hammick. Can you tell us about him?

Chamberlin: Colin Hammick was a young man who was evacuated from London during the Blitz of World War II. While displaced, he stayed with a family that happened to be in the tailoring business.

By chance, he learned the craft of tailoring there. When he returned to London, he quickly secured an apprenticeship at Huntsman. Over time, he rose from apprentice to head cutter and continued working until the mid-90s. His notable contributions were during the 1960s and 1970s when he developed the iconic Huntsman cut.

This design was inspired by a hacking jacket—commonly worn while riding—which featured slanted pockets. Hammick refined this style and established it as the signature Huntsman cut.

His design featured a structured shape, broad lapels, and pronounced shoulders, while also increasing the length to give a flowing silhouette. Traditional tailoring guidelines dictated that jackets end at the bottom of the seat, but Hammick extended this slightly for aesthetic appeal.

Notably, the iconic look he crafted influenced later tailors like Edward Sexton and Tommy Nutter, who were instrumental in the revival of Savile Row’s prestige, especially among celebrities such as The Beatles, with their styles building upon Hammick’s foundational designs.

The Significance of Craftsmanship

YSL News: You’ve dedicated a significant part of your book to detailing how the garments are made. Why is it critical to share the story of how Huntsman creates jackets and suits?

Chamberlin: This narrative holds substantial value for those interested in bespoke tailoring as it showcases the pinnacle of the art.

At Huntsman, having all the key players—like the head cutter, undercutters, tailors, finishers, and pressers—operating under one roof is quite uncommon. There are perhaps only one or two other tailoring houses that can claim the same.

This unique setup enables an extensive view of the entire process while also highlighting the essence of true craftsmanship.

Many people may not grasp the extensive labor involved, thus it’s essential to recognize the skill, effort, and countless hours invested in making a bespoke suit, as it can easily be underestimated or misinterpreted.

Creating a bespoke suit involves roughly 80 hours of handwork, which necessitates significant training, mentorship, and inherent skill. Not everyone possesses the aptitude for this craft, and I aimed to ensure this was duly acknowledged in the book.

Welcoming Readers Inside

YSL News: Savile Row’s tailoring firms have typically been discreet about their operations. How essential was it to make Huntsman accessible when crafting your book?

Chamberlin: Absolutely vital.

I made it a point to engage with everyone within the establishment to truly capture the essence of the Huntsman community.

This was never a brand hesitant to open its doors. Huntsman has embraced this openness, evident through initiatives like the “Kingsman” collaboration and their remarkable auctions, showcasing their creativity with products like Huntsman skis.

The owners, Pierre LaGrange and Ebs Burnough, emphasized that the book should focus on the artistry and the individuals who craft these garments every day, rather than solely on the glamorous aspects like their movie affiliations. I had ample opportunity to delve into research for the book.

From Hammick to Hollywood

YSL News: LaGrange is recognized for guiding Huntsman into the modern era after purchasing the company. How significant is the legacy from the Huntsman of Hammick to the Huntsman of today?

Chamberlin: There’s a strong case to be made that without Pierre LaGrange, Huntsman would likely have shut down.

The company had experienced a turbulent phase marked by Japanese ownership, which lacked deep ties to Savile Row, and I believe tailors can’t thrive if they aren’t entrenched in that location.

Consider the ramifications for tailors under the Trinity Group, such as Kent and Curwen, Cerruti, etc. They suffered because they were significantly distanced from Savile Row.

I’ve previously stated that Pierre LaGrange is arguably the most pivotal figure on Savile Row in the last two decades.

When he acquired Huntsman, the reaction was decidedly skeptical.

Savile Row isn’t particularly welcoming to outsiders; they’re cautious about the actions of those unfamiliar with the community and their place within it.

When LaGrange took over, there was genuine anxiety over the future. He has since proved the naysayers wrong, transforming Huntsman into a thriving brand.

Featuring in ‘Kingsman’

YSL News: Huntsman was featured in the “Kingsman” films under a fictional name, yet it presented the brand to a wider audience. What impact did the films have on the company?

Chamberlin: During my time there, I conducted extensive research, often sitting above the shop, sifting through lease agreements and archival material that There are still some remnants left. While tailors aren’t the best at maintaining archives, Huntsman managed to preserve some delightful artifacts.

Every ten minutes, someone would pass by, exclaiming ‘This is Kingsman.’ They would pause for photos, and many visitors would walk inside. The staff at the front spoke about the incredible influx of visitors they receive daily.

From a public relations standpoint, the impact has been extraordinarily positive, regardless of one’s opinion of the films.

There seems to be an understanding that with iconic characters like Colin Firth alongside younger ones like Taron Egerton, all dressed impeccably, the suit is seen as a universally attractive piece of attire, appealing to everyone.

An Editor’s Inaugural Book

YSL News: What motivated you to write this book at this time?

Chamberlin: It may seem straightforward, but the opportunity arose when they approached me, coinciding with their 175th anniversary.

I must mention Nick Foulkes, who wrote the book’s introduction. He’s my mentor, someone I deeply respect. He has been documenting bespoke craftsmanship since the 1980s, the same decade I was born.

Beyond him, few people share these narratives.

While there are many fashion journalists, understanding the intricacies of tailoring—like saddle stitching or rope shoulders—requires a deeper knowledge of the craft.

The talent pool, to borrow a sports term, is quite limited.

I feel incredibly privileged to have been chosen. They recognized that my expertise in bespoke arts would allow me to accurately represent what their brand stands for.

As I mentioned, it is vital to emphasize craftsmanship, and I feel honored to take on this task.

Final Reflections

YSL News: What message do you hope to convey to readers who might not be experts in tailoring?

Chamberlin: I have a passion for British culture and history. Unlike Italians and French who celebrate their cultural legacies, I feel that the British often overlook their own, especially in tailoring.

I want readers to view this book as a historical account that reveals a significant and rich aspect of British culture.

Elements like James Bond’s signature look stem directly from the craftsmanship practiced on Savile Row. A well-suited Bond isn’t truly Bond; the essence of taste, elegance, and sophistication originates from that iconic street.

At the heart of this street is the Huntsman brand.

I also aim to shed light on the dedicated craftsmen who quietly devote their lives to this art. They enter those charming old British buildings daily, removing jackets and working meticulously at benches, crafting pieces just for you.

The beauty of this story lies in their anonymity. While head cutters receive significant recognition, it’s essential to remember that many others contribute to the process.

This is an ancient craft.

From the moment needle and thread were created, fabrics could be sewn together, offering shelter. The garments we wear are a continuation of that legacy, and the tailors involved uphold this time-honored tradition.